
What a very odd piece from the NYT on food bloggers and restaurateurs who suddenly find themselves, after years of overindulging in rich, fatty foods, to be, well, rich and fat:
Back before everyone with a fork and a laptop started nursing a food blog, Mr. Perlow was a founder of eGullet, a pioneering online discussion forum that helped obsessed food enthusiasts find one another.
It put him at the center of a community where no food was too fatty and no field trip too extreme. Ferreting out the best place for an empanada or the perfect way to braise pork belly meant tasting countless versions, often in the same day. Being the first in the group to find it was golden.
In October, Mr. Perlow was in Denver on business for his day job as a systems integration expert. He fell ill, and what seemed like a case of altitude sickness turned into a three-day hospital visit. There he heard the grim truth: He was diabetic. He weighed more than 400 pounds, his blood pressure was dangerously high and his blood was thick with glucose and cholesterol.
A doctor told him he would be dead in five years.
“I wasn’t shocked but I thought maybe it’s time the party’s over,” he said.
Yeeeeees, what a surprise, indeed, that mainlining chicken fat might lead to ill health.
The only thing that’s terribly surprising about this article is that the specific eating habits of those profiled, and not just their weight, is brought up for examination.
Indeed, other than the scorn (for, undoubtedly, the ickily public weight gain and tacky reminders that certain dietary habits can lead to mortality), I could see the descriptions of what’s being eaten among this crowd as the ultimate in indulgence in a non-belt-tightening era:
To which many members of the Fat Pack say: Shut up and pass the pork butt. Among a certain slice of the food-possessed, to suggest that indulgence might put one’s health in peril is to invite ridicule.
“I think enjoyment of food has never proven to be harmful to anyone’s health,” said Mr. Shaw, who turned from practicing law to writing about food in the late 1990s with an article for salon.com defending fat guys. He still cultivates a persona in print and online as The Fat Guy, and at 5-foot-10 weighs about 270 pounds.
Mr. Shaw said he believes the genetic component of weight and health matter more than moderation and exercise. Although his father died from heart disease, he thinks that the state of medical knowledge on the relationship of diet to health changes so frequently that it can’t be trusted.
Some of his views about diet and health border on the extreme. “I think the whole diabetes thing is a major hoax,” he said. “They are overdiagnosing it.”
Josh Ozersky, the online food editor for New York magazine, once told Mr. Perlow that they were the type of people who had their cholesterol tested for blood. Mr. Ozersky used the pen name Mr. Cutlets when he wrote the eating guide “Meat Me in Manhattan” (Gamble Guides, 2003), but uses his real name on his new book, “The Hamburger: A History,” due out next month from Yale University Press.
“Obviously, my philosophy on gastronomy can be summed up by saying the fat is the meat and the meat is the vegetable,” he said.
And here is where I part company with Mr. Cutlets and those who think like he does (why, yes, Anthony Bourdain, I’m looking at you): Meat is meat, but vegetable is vegetable, and if you can’t enjoy a vegetable without reference to meat, then what kind of foodie are you, really?
Because, honestly, why do you have to agree that meat and lard are the best thing EVAH in order to have an opinion that asparagus dredged in olive oil and grilled with salt and pepper is just about the perfect way to serve that vegetable?
Moreover, why should anyone be ashamed of liking tofu for what tofu is?
Just before Thanksgiving, Mr. Perlow told readers of his blog, Off the Broiler (offthebroiler.wordpress.com), the truth about his health. Reviews of chili dogs and videos of home tostone-frying projects gave way to meditations on lentil soup and The Big Salad.
“I can’t believe I just blogged about tofu,” he said just after the change began. But what a blog entry it was. Mr. Perlow prepared and photographed, in smart, annotated detail, ma-po tofu and tofu skin noodles with spicy peanut sauce.
And though he is still in mourning for his old loves, especially pizza and burgers, he says his pleasure receptors are better tuned to the joys of vegetables and legumes.
While the former eGullet partners don’t speak anymore, Mr. Shaw said he admired Mr. Perlow’s latest venture.
“I’ve got to hand it to Jason,” he said. “He’s not part of the culture of deprivation. He is really enjoying what he eats.”
It’s not like you should jump off a bridge if you can’t get the perfect slice of bacon; there’s a whole world of tastes out there to discover.